…(1)   …(2)   …(3)   …(4)         Cooled DSLR History (5)        First Page☞

copper skiving fin heat sink…………………………………….06. 05. 27

To make removable cooling unit more compacted I looked at the coolers for the computers that are distributed in the market place. First the CPU coolers were getting bigger as clock is getting higher and more heat is coming out, and heatpipe products were getting main product. There were few product of VGA cooler which is small and cool but after testing it’s functions were not good enough. So I finally came up with the Taiwan’s Cooljack slim cooler product after looking at CPU with copper heat sink with great functions. With 3～4mm thick plate and soldering the cooler pin to a copper plate is normal ways of making this but this company used thick copper plate and cutted off the cooler pin to high the function of heat delivery. Read more →

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heatpipe and attachable cooling unit……………………………06. 03. 20

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A study of cooling system using HeatPipe………………………………. 05. 10. 30.

Upper picture is a thin heatpipe cooler used regularly in notebook computers. I used this minicooler concept on cooling CMOS sensors.

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Dry ice cooled DSLR………………….05. 08. 29

I designed dry ice cooling unit & CMOS airtight chanber front of the lens mount.

At the left pictres square hole is the entrance for the dry ice to go in and get out.

I could buy 80 pieces of 28mm×28mm×28mm dry ice for USD $6.5 at dry ice store.

It can be keeped in styropor box for about 2 days and at open space 1 piece go 1/5 of it’s height after 30minutes. by blocking the air it keeped it up twice as long. By putting on insulating cloth it hoped to keep up even more.

Using 15cm FPC cable and connector to connect CMOS to mainboard it is more neatly connected than before.

Luckily I could get 32 pin, 1.0mm pitch, 15cm FPC cable so I was able to do jobs with preexistence CMOS and FPBC.

The boundary sides that cable passes(CMOS chamber > Dryice chamber > camera body)was sealed with silicon calking.

For cable wiring, I fixed camera bosy’s mirror upward, and removed shutter screen and the cable passed through that opened space.

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1.taking image sensor out of camera

at last first steps to modifying 300D……………05. 07. 30

I extended eos 300D’s FPCB which goes to mainboard from CMOS by using flat cable for computers by 25cm to take it out CMOS out of the body housing. concerning that the noise will increase because of extended cable I used aliminium foil  to make temporary cable shield.

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Astro 350D Modifying Process( 3 )   Process-1 ☞    Process-2 ☞

12.assembling airtight chamber to the camera

Use screw 1-6 to fix airtight chamber to camera. First put optic axis levelness coreection washer then use 1-3 screws to fix it.

There are three 1mm diameter holes in green circle in a picture. This is for leveler‘s three legs checking CMOS levelness with optic axis.

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Astro 350D Modifying Process( 2 )   Process-1 ☞    Process-3 ☞

7.making mainboard’s USB extenasion cable

Remove miniUSB connector from mainboard using soldering iron. Then attach extenansion cable at 2cm length firmly so it won’t fall.

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Astro 350D Modifying Process( I )   Process-2 ☞    Process-3 ☞

1.start…..opening the camera

First remove camera’s CF memory and battery, then loosen screws, two of them at left of the camera, three of them at right CF slot, and three of them at bottom of the camera. open the back cover carefully. You’ll see two FPCB cables connected to the mainboard at rearside of the LCD. Unlock the connector’s locking device and easily pull it. It’ll separate easily.

Keeping the back cover opened, if you look at leftside you’ll see three jacks – USB, AVout, and Remote control, as in pictures. all these will have to be replaced to put the airtight chamber.

2.separating mainboard

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